There's a particular satisfaction in spotting a solid oak sideboard for the price of a supermarket shop, or a pair of sturdy chairs going cheap because the seat pads look tired. Pre-loved furniture is usually better made than the flat-pack equivalent, it costs less, and it keeps decent timber out of the skip. It also comes with risks: wobbles, woodworm, lingering smells, and the chest of drawers that won't go up your stairs. All of it is manageable once you know what to look at.

Measure your space and your route before you commit

Sellers rarely measure accurately, so take your own tape measure and check the numbers yourself. Width, depth and height matter, but so does the diagonal of any doorway the piece has to pass through, and the turning space at the top of the stairs. A wardrobe that is 5cm too wide is not a wardrobe; it is a problem in your hallway.

Write down the measurements that matter at home: the gap between the skirting boards, the height of your window sills if a sofa is going under one, the depth of an alcove. Standard dining tables sit around 75cm high and chairs around 45cm at the seat, which is a useful reference if you are mixing old and new pieces.

Then measure the journey. Your front door, the narrowest point of the hallway, the stairwell, the lift if you have one, and the car boot or van opening. A piece of cardboard cut to the footprint of the item will tell you more in ten seconds than a listing photo ever will.

What to inspect when you see it in person

Go in daylight if you can, and take a torch, a tape measure and a damp cloth. Look at the piece from every angle, including underneath.

Wood and joints

Wobble it gently. Sit on the chair, open and close the doors, slide the drawers. Racking — where a chair twists slightly out of shape — usually means loose joints, which is often fixable with glue and a clamp but worth knowing about. Look at the underside of tables and the back of wardrobes: that is where water damage, old repairs and split timber show up first. Fine dust falling from small round holes means woodworm, so check whether it is fresh.

Upholstery, drawers and hardware

Run a hand over the fabric and look at the seams, the corners and under the cushions. Sagging webbing and a frame you can feel through the padding are expensive to put right unless you are handy. Take drawers right out and check the runners, the base and the corner joints; a drawer that sticks may just need wax, but a cracked base is a bigger job. Check hinges, handles and castors for missing screws and rattles.

Smells, damp and pests

Smell the inside of drawers and cupboards. Mothballs, cigarette smoke, damp and pet odours can be reduced but rarely removed completely from soft furnishings. Look for white bloom or dark patches on back panels, and inspect anything that has been stored in a garage or shed especially carefully.

Questions worth asking before you hand over money

• How old is it, and is it solid wood, veneer or MDF?
• Have any joints been repaired, and has it been treated for woodworm?
• Has it come from a smoke-free, pet-free home?
• Is it already dismantled, and are all the fixings included?
• Can I see it in daylight, and can I collect it myself?
• What is the lowest price you would take if I collect this week?

Safety checks that are easy to skip

Upholstered furniture sold in the UK normally carries a fire safety label. If it is missing, ask why, and if you are unsure about a seller's obligations, your local council's trading standards team can advise. Any glass — mirrors, cabinet doors, table tops — should be checked for chips and cracks.

Tall bookcases, wardrobes and chests should be fixed to the wall with a suitable strap or bracket, particularly in homes with children or pets. If you are stripping old paint, work outside or with good ventilation, avoid dry sanding and wear a mask; paint made decades ago can contain lead, and test kits are available from DIY shops. For anything you are unsure about, take proper advice rather than guessing.

Cleaning it up at home

Give everything a day or two in a well-ventilated space — a garage, a shed or a spare room with the window open — before it joins the rest of your furniture. Then work through this:

1. Vacuum the whole piece with a brush attachment, including the underside and inside the drawers.
2. Wipe hard surfaces with a cloth wrung out in warm water and a little washing-up liquid. Test a hidden patch first, and never soak veneer or unfinished wood.
3. Clean glass and mirrors with a diluted vinegar solution and buff dry with a cloth.
4. For lingering smells, leave an open dish of bicarbonate of soda inside a drawer or cupboard for a few days.
5. Treat scratches with a wax filler stick or a little furniture wax in a matching tone.

Small repairs a beginner can manage

Loose chair legs, wobbly tables and squeaking doors cover most of what you will face. PVA wood glue and a couple of clamps will fix many joints: squeeze glue in, work it around, clamp it and leave it overnight. A screw that no longer grips can be helped with a sliver of wood or a matchstick in the hole before you drive it back in. Hinges and drawer runners respond well to a drop of light oil and a wipe down.

On older or antique pieces, keep repairs reversible. Avoid heavy sanding, keep the original hardware somewhere safe, and use traditional wax rather than modern varnish. If a piece looks valuable or you are unsure, spend a little on advice before you reach for the sandpaper.

A simple routine that saves regrets

Measure the route and the space, view in daylight, wobble everything, ask the awkward questions, and pay only when you are happy to take it home as it stands. Set your budget before you go, including the cost of a van, glue, wax or new castors, and be prepared to walk away. The best second-hand pieces are the ones you inspected properly, carried in without a scratch, and are still using ten years later.

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